Fes is Morocco’s spiritual and artisanal heart. Fes el-Bali, its medieval walled medina, is one of the largest car-free urban areas on earth — a labyrinth of 9,000+ lanes, workshops, mosques and madrasas that has barely changed in centuries. It’s less polished than Marrakech and all the better for it.
Give Fes 2 days, stay in a riad inside Fes el-Bali, and consider a licensed guide for your first half-day to get oriented in the medina. Don't miss the Chouara tanneries, the Bou Inania and Al-Attarine madrasas, and the view from the Marinid Tombs at sunset.
Where to stay in Fes
- Fes el-Bali (old medina) — stay here. The riads are spectacular and you’re inside the living museum. Note you’ll walk in; arrange a porter for luggage.
- Fes el-Jdid — the “new” medieval quarter, near the royal palace and the old Jewish quarter (Mellah). Quieter.
- Ville Nouvelle — modern hotels and easier transport, but you trade away the atmosphere. Best only if you want a pool and parking.
What to see
- Chouara Tanneries — the iconic dye pits, best viewed from a surrounding leather shop’s terrace (they’ll hand you mint to mask the smell; a small tip or polite browse is expected).
- Bou Inania & Al-Attarine madrasas — jaw-dropping zellige tilework and carved cedar, and the only religious buildings non-Muslims can enter.
- Bab Bou Jeloud (the Blue Gate) — the grand entrance to the medina and a great orientation point.
- Marinid Tombs — climb up at golden hour for the classic panorama over the whole medina.
- A craft workshop — Fes is the home of Moroccan ceramics, brass and weaving; watching a master at work is the city at its best.
Getting around
Inside Fes el-Bali you walk — there’s no other option, and that’s the point. For the Ville Nouvelle, the train station, or the tanneries-to-tombs hop, petit taxis are cheap (15–40 MAD across town; insist on the meter).
Fes is also a natural rail hub: the train to Marrakech (~7 hours), Rabat and Casablanca is comfortable and inexpensive — see our getting around Morocco guide.
When to go
Spring and autumn are perfect. Summer is hot and the medina’s tight lanes trap the heat; winter is cool and atmospheric, with crisp light for those rooftop views.